I ATTENDED the Pilgrim’s Mass at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela on October 11, 2022. The Botafumeiro made its appearance, swinging across the altar. I said a prayer of gratitude and went out for a last round of drinks with co-pilgrims.
I just finished the Camino Frances, a journey spanning 116 km in Spain in six days. The time came when I knew I definitely wanted to do it. Elections were over. Work was done.
At the embassy, someone familiar was applying for a visa. She will do the Camino de Santiago but a longer route. I will do that someday, I thought. For now, I am thrilled to walk for the first time.
It wasn’t hard to get information but it could get overwhelming. I trimmed it to a few websites, forum, apps, books — and friends — enough to develop a training plan, get the right clothing, equipment and medical supplies, decide on lodging, luggage transfers and train schedules, create pre-walk and post-walk rituals, learn Spanish phrases. “¿Donde puedo regarcar mi botella de agua?” Preparing was so much fun.
I walked in U.P. while it was raining, imagining a rainy day in Spain. I hiked at La Mesa Nature Reserve while the path was muddy, with backpack and trekking poles, hoping to anticipate what could happen as I walk the Camino, raining, on my own. And just like that, I suffered a huge bruise because a wooden plank gave way. I was actually glad it happened. I was able to manage the situation and still laugh.
Nothing dangerous happened during my six-day Camino. It’s amazing how the route is so friendly to pilgrims. Fear came only on two occasions.
Day 1 was 22 km from Sarria to Portomarin. I worried about crossing the high bridge over River Miño out of fear of heights. I was ready to say, “Estoy asustada de cruzar el puente” or take a taxi. On the actual day, I was walking so slowly that by the time I reached the bridge there were no other pilgrims I could ask to walk with me. It was also windy. I jumped from the pedestrian road to the main road, running as fast as I could.
Day 1 also meant choosing among the Main Way, the Alternative Way, and the Supplementary Way before reaching the bridge. A sign showed the different maps and John Brierley’s book discusses these options. But as I was walking along a narrow bushy path, graffiti on sight, without anyone around, I admit I got scared.
Oh, on Day 1, as I was about to take the train from Madrid to Sarria, the wheel of my luggage broke down.
But the Camino provides.
I wouldn’t say that I’m a better person now or that I found a new purpose in life. All I know, I savored every moment under the sun and the rain and the Galician forest, seeing other pilgrims (some on wheelchair, others cycling with their dog), having cheap wine at day’s end, pausing to kneel down or send out good wishes for country, family and friends. So much that I never once listened to the three playlists I prepared just for this journey./PN
