BY IME SORNITO
IN THE QUIET yet bustling streets near Jaro Plaza in Iloilo City, the aroma of freshly baked bingka — a beloved Filipino rice cake — wafts through the air, drawing churchgoers and passersby alike. For the Zabico family of Barangay Sooc in Arevalo district, this humble delicacy represents not only tradition but also survival, legacy, and love.
For over 46 years, “Polly’s Bibingka”, strategically located in front of Jaro Plaza, has been a steadfast source of livelihood for the Zabico family. It all began with Marit Zabico, now 70, who inherited the skills of bingka-making from her mother.
“It was my mother who taught me how to make bingka. I started selling near the plaza, and Polly’s Bibingka was born,” Marit shares, her voice brimming with nostalgia.
Sustaining a Legacy
As age caught up with Marit, the family business was passed down to her daughter-in-law, Bele Baylen-Zabico, who now runs the daily operations with the help of her children.
Bele, who has been at the forefront of Polly’s Bibingka for nearly two decades, embodies the same dedication that Marit demonstrated.
“Even my two kids, aged 16 and 13, help out when there are no classes. It’s a family effort,” Bele says proudly.
The Zabico family has relied on this business to fund their needs, from daily sustenance to education for their children.
“This business sent my children to school and provided for our needs. It’s not easy work, but it’s worth it,” Marit adds.
Despite its simplicity, running a bingka business is no small feat. From mixing and cooking the batter over open flames to enduring the heat and smoke, the process requires patience and skill. Yet, Marit and Bele remain undeterred.
“It’s hard work, but it’s fulfilling. We’ve mastered the recipe over time, and it’s a joy to see our customers come back,” Marit explains.
Seasonal Demand and Steady Gains
Like most traditional food businesses, bingka sales are largely seasonal. The demand skyrockets during the Christmas season, particularly from December 16 to 24, coinciding with the traditional Simbang Gabi masses.
“People feel like their Simbang Gabi is incomplete without bibingka,” Marit chuckles. On regular days, Polly’s Bibingka earns about P1,000 daily, but during the holiday rush, income can double.
Over the years, the price of bibingka has naturally risen with inflation — from P10 per pack decades ago to P50 today, with each pack containing 10 pieces. Despite this, the business remains a community favorite. Polly’s Bibingka operates from 5 a.m. to 7 a.m. on weekdays and all day during weekends, ensuring it meets the demands of its loyal patrons.
Passing Down the Art
Beyond the Zabicos, other families in Iloilo also keep the tradition alive. Mila Lozada, 51, has been selling bingka near the Jaro Cathedral for over 30 years. Like Marit, she learned the craft from her mother.
“I started helping my mother sell bingka as a child, and eventually, I learned how to make it myself,” she recalls.
For Mila, bingka is a lifeline. With her earnings, she managed to send her children to college and even built a home for her family.
On Sundays, Mila earns around P3,000, with P1,500 going to expenses and the other half as profit.
“December is the best time for sales because of church activities and the crowds they draw,” Mila shares.
A Tradition Worth Keeping
When asked about the secret to their success, both Marit and Bele agree it’s about mastering the craft and understanding what customers want.
“There’s no real secret. It’s about experience and consistency. Over time, you just know the right mix and what people love,” Marit says with a smile.
For these women, bingka-making is a legacy that nourishes not only their families but also the communities they serve. As Marit aptly puts it, “We are blessed that everyone in the family knows how to make bingka. That’s what makes this business sustainable.”
In a world constantly chasing modernity, the Zabicos and Lozadas remind us of the enduring value of tradition. Through their labor of love, they keep a cherished Filipino heritage alive, one delicious bingka at a time./PN
