A writer’s delight: Baclayon’s treasured gems and valued traditions

THIS IS the first time since I returned to Bohol that I have decided to rediscover and relive the Boholano traditions during Semana Santa. My raison d’être: I wanted to observe it using a fresh set of lenses.

A lady friend I made during the break, Jeane Aya-ay Rollon, with whom I had a leisurely walk and a satisfying tête-à-tête at Baluarte in Baclayon, Maundy Thursday night until midnight, asked me what inspires me. Don’t I love the question! If only I could be asked that single question each time, perhaps my inspiration would be unending. I said the reason I needed to go somewhere, experience something new, meet people, and dip myself in a different locale is inspiration. It’s no mean feat to keep creativity going. Oftentimes, it is a struggle. Realistically, there are bright days and dark days.

Church rituals

From Holy Wednesday to Good Friday, people from all walks of life congregated at Baclayon church. They were mostly parishioners, a sizable number of tourists, and city folks I recognized. The area was abuzz with a multitude, and consequently, the heat followed. The electric fans could not blow away the heat, especially during Masses. Churchgoers fanned themselves from corner to corner.

Interestingly, everyone in church had their respective intentions. I would say most everyone wanted to come and pray. Some dropped by for the vigil and to pray. Families doing traditional church visits, making Baclayon one of their church stops, arrived. A throng joined the Masses. But in all this, all these folks, including myself, gazed at the caros parked inside the church. I have never seen a church so alive!

On Holy Wednesday and Good Friday, I did live coverage of Procesión sa Pasos and Procesión de Santo Entierro, respectively, as it naturally happened sans the voiceover. I wanted the procesión to speak for itself. Amusingly, two individuals recognized me during the Good Friday procession: broadcaster Sendoy Guingguing and Engr. Marc Batoy—once my guest on Woman Talk.

Church interior

I am always astonished by the interior of the church. It’s aged, mystifying, and yet comforting. Older human beings, like old structures, provide consolation, like we draw comfort from our grandparents, parents, and older folks; similarly, an antiquated church’s aura conveys reassurance. I don’t think I am imagining how I felt. There is truly relief in old churches.

I knew Baclayon church had undergone repairs over the years, yet its ancient character, tranquil impression, and serene touch have been preserved for centuries. People may think they have evolved, advanced, and are tech savvy, yet, when their souls crave respite, they revert to the old churches for solace, peace, and quiet.

But why?

I did my research to satisfy my curiosity. One study says a combination of factors evokes this comforting quality inside churches. These factors include the architectural design — maybe because the structure, especially the imposing ones, enwraps you — you soak in it; historical significance — you blend with its history including your ancestors who had also worshipped in the same church; and the sense of community they foster — point well-taken since being in church means you belong to a community whether you are friends with anyone you meet or not. Moreover, the quiet environment and soft lighting create a calming and peaceful ambiance. It is ethereal.

Doors and staircases

Fortunate to have resided in the Mediterranean-inspired home of Ate Mila Calope and Uncle Steve Galvan, right across the back of the church, I saunter a few steps from the house, cross the street, and voila, I’m already on church grounds! But what makes it distinctive is the entry to the church grounds — an old wooden door — that has captivated my attention since 2022. The moment you enter the threshold, your attention is instantly captured by a timeworn staircase as if transporting you to another era, made more surreal by the refreshing scent of Ilang-ilang wafting through the air.

Huge doors and staircases have always fascinated me. This fascination goes back to my grandparents’ house in Balilihan, which featured a characteristic wooden staircase supported by curved metal baluster railings that let me push my face out without squeezing. I tried it countless times during my childhood!

Meanwhile, the old staircase is monumental. It’s as old as the church. Any ordinary mortal can imagine the hundreds of thousands of individuals who have climbed these stairs, dating back to the 16th century when Spanish missionaries first built the church structure. Msgr. Vicente Nunag explained, “Atop the stone stairway is a flat mound, barely noticeable now, because of the souvenir shop. This used to be the ‘punishment mound’ where the flogging of transgressors occurred. In those days, there was no separation between church and state.” And I’m right! The stone stairway has its distinct history, albeit it’s a painful one. “The space between the church building and the elementary school used to be the parish cemetery, while the stone building serving as the elementary school at present was owned by the church but was expropriated by the Americans during the American colonization,” Msgr. Nunag added.

According to a study, doors carry a symbolism. They represent transition, exploration, and mystery. On the other hand, staircases, as abstract symbols, can denote progress, challenges, transitions, or the stages of a journey. And yet again, transitions. Well, perennial transitions marked my earthly life; that probably explains why doors and staircases are my favorite objects.

As my trip was about to end, I posed by the town kiosk for some snaps. This kiosk is a mystery to me. Why is it standing in the middle of the street, pray tell? There must be an explanation somewhere. I also took shots in the middle of the empty calle at the back of the church. That should make you appreciate the street I cross going to church.

Finally, on Resurrection Sunday, I joined the Mass, completing the immersion. The choir was heavenly, the ritual was uplifting, and the sermon was straightforward. Candor has its virtues.

The end.

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The writer hosts Woman Talk with Belinda Sales every Saturday, 10 a.m., at 91.1 Balita FM Tagbilaran City. Email at belindabelsales@gmail.com. X @ShilohRuthie./PN

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