Reminiscing ‘Calle Real’

TOMORROW, some 83 years ago, Aug. 25, 1937, Iloilo was formally inaugurated as a chartered city after the municipalities of La Paz, Mandurriao, Molo, and Arevalo were merged on July 16, 1937 by virtue of Commonwealth Act 158.

Perhaps it was just a whimsical notion, a touch of nostalgia, a longing for one’s youth reminiscing wonderful memories of Calle Real.

And it seems like a good day to start the week with some nice positive vibes…

It’s not often one is asked about how one thinks or feel about a particular place…an area commonly known as “Downtown Iloilo” likewise being referred to as a local.

I suppose I qualify as a “local” having been born and raised and studied in Iloilo City, that is until the last 30 years. I’ve been away satisfying my wanderlust. But now I’m sort of back.

So thru the eyes of a genuine dyed in the wool local here’s what I think of “Downtown Iloilo”:

Growing up in Iloilo City we’ve always referred to “Downtown Iloilo” as Calle Real (Royal Street in Spanish).Officially named as J.M. Basa Street, it is a historic street located in the old downtown district Iloilo City. It is the street often referred to as the “Escolta of Iloilo”. It is home to several fine examples of historic luxury American-era neoclassicalbeaux-arts and art deco buildings.

The street has been famous since the Spanish era. However, its importance has dwindled and the street has become less maintained. Yyet recently there have been efforts to revitalize the street, which include the restoration of historic buildings along the street and beautification projects.

I’ve had fond childhood memories of Calle Real – catching the latest films in the movie houses along J.M. Basa Street and Guanco Street and having snacks in nearby cafes with my parents and siblings, and later on as a teenager going on dates in these places.

The Art-Deco buildings and other structures along the street deteriorated but remained to be a shopping hub of the city.

Calle Real as a district consisting of Aldeguer, Guanco and Iznart, J. M. Basa, and Mapa streets was declared an Iloilo City heritage zone by the virtue of Ordinance No. 00-054, also known as the Local Cultural Heritage Conservation Ordinance which established the Iloilo City Cultural Heritage Conservation Council (ICCHC).

The National Historical Commission of the Philippines declared Calle Real a district and a heritage zone in Aug. 8, 2014 with the unveiling of a historical marker outside the Villanueva Building. Its current restoration has been a public-private partnership between the government and the Iloilo Cultural Heritage Foundation, Inc. (ICHFI).

With the advent and development of a new business and leisure district more popularly known as the Iloilo Business Park or Megaworld, it is but inevitable that the city was unofficially divided into the “Iloilo Nuevo” or “New Iloilo” and the “Iloilo Viejo” or “Old Iloilo”.

And this works just fine for both  the visitors and locals alike. You have a combination of the “old” and the “new”, of modern and the historic, and the testament of the Ilonggosheritage, the best of both worlds.

For most Ilonggos, Calle Real or “Downtown Iloilo” is what is now known as “Iloilo Viejo”, particularly for the older generation or those who had their formative years in the 1950s or earlier, you know, the non-millennials. It is always a special place reminiscent of times when life was elegant and not so hectic.

For most of the descendants of the original families of Iloilo City, Calle Real is a testament to a time of the genteel and laidback lifestyle of Iloilo’s elite and rich Spanish heritage. You know, there was a time in the past when all business establishments in Calle Real had their billboards and adverts written in Spanish, including the ones in Chinatown.

Although Hiligaynon was the widely spoken common dialect, the lingua franca was Spanish amongst Iloilo City’s diverse population of Peninsulares, Insulares, Mestizos, Chinese and Indios.

After all, in the late 1800s, Iloilo City was known and was given the title “La Muy Leal y Noble Ciudad de Iloilo” which means “Most Loyal and Noble City.” This is an inscription in the Coat of Arms from the Royal Decree of 1896 in recognition of the local people’s loyalty to the Spanish crown.

As a local, born and raised in Iloilo City, I am proud of “Downtown Iloilo” or Calle Real as much as I am proud of my Hispanic heritage although I am just speaking for myself. Without a doubt the tumandoks or genuine dyed in the wool Ilonggosshare my sentiments.

And by the way, Iloilo City has the lowest crime rate in entire Philippines, lowest level of corruption, highest life expectancy in Visayas and Mindanao, huge concentration of middle class and ranks No. 1 in happiness index, and the most business-friendly city./PN

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