DRIVING from the capital city of Tagbilaran to Valencia has always been a source of delight. It’s a road trip that I always enjoy for years now whether by my lonesome or with Shiloh Ruthie. I guess it’s influenced by my father who always brought us to Valencia on weekends during my childhood, and secondly, the breathtaking coastal scenery.
Where does the good vista start anyway? Well, it begins from Baclayon, cruising through Alburquerque, Lila, and Dimiao until you reach Valencia. Apart from the exhilarating panorama, there are also interesting features of these coastal towns.
Baclayon. According to the town’s official website, Baclayon “is a charming, historic town, renowned for being the first municipality to be established on the island by the Spaniards in 1596.” That sums it all up! It’s steeped in history and yet it is bustling, and even has its own night life, so to speak! Its best attraction so far is the centuries-old Baclayon Church of the Immaculate Conception.
Alburquerque. Driving through Alburquerque, one can see the rich mangrove forest by the roadside. It’s a setting I have always admired since I was young.
According to an article written by Architect Benjamin Concepcion Empleo, “Although we all know of Alburquerque (‘Albur’ as it is colloquially known) in Bohol for its ‘Asin tibuok’ – I didn’t even know this growing up – a type of rare artisanal sea salt . . . made from filtering seawater through ashes, lesser known is that immediately across where these salt beds are found is a church complex whose walls are the oldest witness to the burning coconut husks from which salt is derived.” The Santa Monica Church has its own unique place in history just like all the other old churches in Bohol.
Loay. Traversing Loay, you will pass through the new Clarin Bridge which was officially opened on June 7, 2022. Growing up though, we used to cross the old and original Clarin Bridge which I fondly called “Taytayan” Bridge – of course taytayan is bridge in Bisaya but I preferred the term anyway given my affection for the structure.
I came across an interesting snippet on Facebook dated December 7, 2017. It’s published under Old Bohol and features “Clarin Bridge, Loay, Bohol, Date: 1970.” It says, “The steel bridge was built shortly after World War II along the eastern road of Bohol and connected the towns of Alburquerque and Loay. It was one of the first revolving bridges in the country and certainly the only one of its kind in the Visayas.” Clarin Bridge “passes over Loboc river, one of the two navigable rivers of Bohol (the other is Inabanga). It was constructed to enable vessels coming from the port town of Loay to reach the interior town of Loboc. The circular base in the middle revolves around its axis, moving the bridge some ninety degrees.” Unfortunately, Loay was abandoned as a port soon after.
In the seventies, I thought the old Clarin Bridge was remarkably ahead of its time. I always looked forward to crossing it each time we visited Valencia.
Lila. Lila’s panoramic view of the sea is food for the soul. It’s pure bliss to drive through the view and stop for a while to let the seascape sink in.
According to the province’s website, there is no record showing the establishment of Lila during the Spanish era but based on Agustinian mission accounts in Bohol, it was a separate municipality in 1879, with a population of 4,023. There was also no official record showing its annexation to Dimiao because all records had been burned. Tough luck! However, it was on January 1, 1915, when Lila became an independent municipality. It must have been a memorable new year for Lila in 1915!
Dimiao. Sometime in 2013, I discovered the catacombs at the back of Dimiao Church. I was dumbfounded to find it sitting there for years and years and yet I didn’t even discover it! The Ermita Ruins is adjacent to the San Nicolas Tolentino Church.
At the time of my visit with one nephew and two nieces, we were the only individuals present, and one can sense the eerie ambiance of the place. However, it didn’t prevent me from checking and photographing the different structures with the catacombs serving as wall of the entire ruins. A signage stood explaining what the ruins is all about.
When I returned in March 2019, the place had been closed to visitors and onlookers, I believe, because of the aftermath of the October 2013 earthquake. It looked abandoned and desolate. It will be a waste of heritage to allow the place to further deteriorate.
Valencia. Valencia is my father’s birthplace. It used to be a sleepy town when I was a kid, but the progress now is unmistakable. Badiang Spring was the place to go then, but I haven’t been there since 2012. That’s like centuries ago! It doesn’t help that a mammoth building covered the entrance of Badiang Spring. It’s a bummer!
Like many old churches in Bohol, Valencia’s church has its own distinct history. Valencia was constituted as a town in 1869 and a parish in 1871 and named after a southern coastal city in Spain. It figures!
What stands out is the church’s wooden floor comprised of interchanging dark (tindalo or balayong) and light (molave or tugas) wood planks. The wooden floor is the real gem of the church as cited by Valencianhon, visitors, and other writers. I didn’t even realize how creatively beautiful it was until my cousin directed my attention in 2019!
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The writer hosts Woman Talk with Belinda Sales at 91.1 Balita FM Tagbilaran City every Saturday, 2 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. She can be reached at belindabelsales@gmail.com. Twitter @ShilohRuthie./PN
