GROWING up, I took for granted that the Abatan River in Cortes, Bohol, was a ubiquitous feature in our frequent trips to Balilihan, whenever we visited my grandparents. It was simply there beckoning for a closer look, but we had never stopped. I wonder why! We could have marveled at its soothing calm and green back then. On second thought, it must be the comfort that anywhere we go, it will always be there waiting for us.
As a kid, I used to imagine crocodiles inhabiting the bottom of the river because of its dark green water and the lush nipa palms thriving along the riverbank. Abatan just positioned itself there, magnificent in its quiet power, occupying its natural space, flowing, day in and day out, even as I left my home province and journeyed in a faraway region.
Abatan River had witnessed several transformations including the development of the bad, unpaved road to its present comfortable state. Oh, I remember the bad municipal thoroughfare of my youth! Over the years, moderate to fierce typhoons had lashed at the river and its sturdy banks disturbing its tranquil life. But the river gracefully survived the ordeals.
Moving forward, in early June 2022 as I came home to visit Balilihan and drove past the river, I was taken by surprise, even aghast, as I saw the nipa population thinned significantly, no thanks to the destructive winds packed by typhoon Odette in December 2021. Among those destroyed by Odette were Abatan’s natural riverine vegetation, particularly nipa. You drive by now and you can visualize in your head the difference between the pre-Odette and post-Odette eras. But the Abatan nipa is resilient. I’m sure it will recover in time.
All these years, in and out of Bohol, I never saw the entire Abatan River vista from afar since the river snaking in Cortes was very close to the road. So last week, when we decided to hit the highway to explore a high-ground resto, we finally had a grand full view of the river from Antequera. From my vantage point, I looked at the river, and I was still awed by how rich Bohol is in vistas and greenery. It was an “Ah” moment! Nothing compares to the beauty of Bohol, pricey cost of living notwithstanding.
Abatan is a 19-25 kilometer navigable waterway located near the capital city and flows through the towns of Catigbian, Antequera, Balilihan (I wonder where in Balilihan though. Let’s find out!), and Maribojoc before it empties into the sea in Cortes. That’s why Cortes is called the estuary. Curious about estuaries, I did my research. It is simply described as a “partially enclosed coastal area where freshwater from rivers and streams mixes with salty ocean water, creating a unique ‘brackish’ (slightly salty) environment that acts as a transition zone between land and sea, serving as vital nurseries for wildlife.” “Transition zone,” don’t you just love that label! It’s similar to crossroads. The crossroads where land meets the sea.
These “vital nurseries for wildlife” is explained by an article written by the National Museum of the Philippines in 2021 stating that the Abatan River estuary in Cortes, is a critical eco-tourism and conservation area, known for its extensive mangrove forests with thirty-two species, including the rare and globally endangered Camptostemon philippinense, locally known as “Gapas-gapas.” Moreover, “There are eight species of fireflies, including the Pteroptyx macdermotti, which is endemic to the Philippines,” the article further said. There is really so much to learn!
Interestingly, the name Abatan comes from the Visayan word “abat,” meaning to “meet, converge, or come together.” In my young life, “abat” was used when we drove to the seaport or airport to “meet” a guest or a returning family member. Synonyms to abat are tagbo or sugat.
The scenery was undoubtedly picturesque, made more distinct by the imposing Cortes Church protruding from a distance, looking like a castle of the olden days. We lingered for over two hours, enjoying the alternating warm and cool breeze, and then, it was time to return to the city.
I thought I would be blown away by the sight. Surprisingly, I wasn’t. It has always been the sea for me. It’s the one that truly captures my soul.
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The writer hosts Woman Talk with Belinda Sales every Saturday, 10 a.m., at 91.1 Balita FM Tagbilaran City. Email at belindabelsales@gmail.com. Follow us on X @ShilohRuthie./PN
