Is there Artisan Bread in Iloilo City?

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BY LUIS BUENAFLOR JR.
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LET’S TAKE a break from the unpleasantness of the political scene and talk about something more palatable (pun intended) and better tasting.

No, we’re not talking about those delightful miniskirt-clad habitués of Starbucks; we’ll reserve them for another column. God knows those lovely legs are distracting enough to spill your Americano all over your bagel.

Believe it or not we’re talking about food, bread in particular, that staple that almost everyone takes for granted but it’s something we all cannot do without. Bread is a very important staple in our diet as much as rice.

Yes, the average Filipino consumes as much bread as he does rice, particularly in the urban areas.

No, we’re not going to talk about pan de sal of Buho or pan de leche of Dainty. Moi must admit though that although proletarian, these local baked goodies are quite delicious and could hold their own against the English muffin or the American dinner roll.

We’re going up several notches higher in terms of artistic and social status including, of course, taste, nutritional value and texture of the bread; in fact the level is bourgeoisie.

The particular bread moi is talking about is Artisan Bread. For those used to buying their bread at the deli this is quite common but for the hoi polloi used to buying at La Paz Bakeshop then this is something new even alien.

One does not need to be wearing bespoke clothes or Chemise Lacoste shirts so you can eat Artisan Bread; Uniqlo will do. Moi has to admit though that eating Artisan Bread is an acquired taste.

So what in the world is Artisan Bread?

Artisan bread is best described by thinking about the person who makes the bread. An artisan baker is a craftsperson who is trained to the highest ability to mix, ferment and shape, and bakes a handcrafted loaf of bread.

“Artisan” is a noun that is used to describe a craftsperson, or one who instructs crafterspersons. An artisan is a skilled worker. A loaf of bread can never become a skilled worker or a craftsperson. The correct term, not that we hear it very often, is artisanal bread, or bread made by an artisan.

Ok, so we’re clear on that and hopefully you’re no longer lost in translation.

When we came back to “I Am Iloilo City” after being away for almost three decades, one of our concerns is that if there is a proper bakeshop or deli that makes and sells Artisan Bread.

Artisan Bread is an acquired taste. After almost three decades of the French Baker and Village Gourmet, one develops that particular taste and would no longer settle for the lowly pan de sal from Buho. This not about being snobbish, it’s all about satisfying one’s palate.

So the search begun and after several near hits and misses the search narrowed down to four notable bakeshops in “I Am Iloilo City.” These four bakeshops make and sell Artisan Bread.

It is interesting and quite refreshing to note that all four bakeshops are locals and do not belong to any chain domestic or otherwise just good plain old “Ilonggo” creativity.

All four bakeshop make and sell your basic Artisan Bread i.e. French loaf, Baguette, Rye Bread, Sourdough and Multigrain.

One makes and sells all five mentioned Artisan Breads, they’re lovely and have the right taste and texture but are a bit pricey than the rest.

The other also makes and sells all five mentioned Artisan Breads plus Bagels, Ciabatta, Panini and Pretzels. They’re also lovely and have the right taste and texture and are priced more reasonably.

The third one makes and sells only French loaf, Sourdough and Baguettes. Moi is not happy with their mentioned Artisan Breads as they’re quite not there in terms of the right taste and texture. In fact all three mentioned Artisan Breads they make and sell have no difference in taste and texture. Their prices are definitely much lower.

The fourth one only makes and sells Rye Bread and not regularly but it has the right taste and texture one should expect of a proper Rye Bread, and priced quite reasonably, too.

So there you go people, yes, “I Am Iloilo City” has Artisan Bread and they can hold their own against the Artisan Breads of the French Baker and Village Gourmet. Now if only they would make and sell proper Pita Bread. (brotherlouie16@gmail.com/PN)

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1 COMMENT

  1. Hi. I was just wondering the NAMES of these bake shops and perhaps addresses

    I am staying in Iloilo for three months and do not normally have any sugar in my bread. So the sweetness of bread in the Philippines is just not very palatable.

    I would happily buy some Sourdough or Rye bread if I could find it anywhere here

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