NATIVE delicacies, commonly referred to as kakanin or kalan-unon, hold a special place on family tables during All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day — a time dedicated to honoring departed loved ones.
While their presence on festive tables is rooted in tradition, the people behind these delicacies are often overlooked. Their tireless efforts not only sustain livelihoods but also preserve a rich culinary heritage.
Sticky rice: the heart of ‘kakanin’
Stefanie Balceta, 30, a mother of seven from San Miguel, Iloilo, has been selling sticky glutinous rice, or pilit, and muscovado sugar for over three years. Operating as a bolantera, she travels weekly with her husband and nephews to markets in Oton and Pavia towns, and Jaro, Iloilo City.
“We’ve been selling for about three years now, starting during the pandemic. We face the challenge of selling every day,” Balceta shared.
Sales peak during special occasions. On regular days, she earns around P5,000, but festive seasons can bring P10,000 in sales. Her pilit is priced affordably at P80 per half-gantang, while muscovado sugar sells for P120 per gantang or P40 per small can. Despite modest profits, Balceta’s dedication ensures her family’s needs are met, particularly her children’s education.
Homegrown vendors’ decades of dedication
For 59-year-old widow Candelaria Temblador of Pavia, kakanin has been a livelihood for over three decades. Rising before dawn, she prepares fresh batches of delicacies daily, often displaying her products on a small table.
“During Piyesta Minatay, we receive many large orders, especially for our specialties — baye-baye, suman, and cuchinta,” Temblador shared.
Her journey has not been without challenges. From starting small with her late husband to losing their market stall, she has adapted and persevered, sourcing ingredients locally and maintaining strong ties with her community.
Passion knows no age
At 70, Magdalena Jagolino continues to cook and sell kakanin. Starting her journey as a young woman, she has balanced family life with entrepreneurship, often waking at 1 a.m. to prepare delicacies with the help of her children.
“Even with arthritis and age, I still cook by myself,” Lola Magdalena said.
On All Souls’ Day, business surges, with daily earnings reaching up to P2,000. Her offerings include suman, baye-baye, ibos, and kalamay hati, prepared both for regular customers and special orders.
Through their labor and dedication, Balceta, Temblador, and Jagolino illustrate the vibrant tradition of Ilonggo kakanin — blending passion, perseverance, and cultural heritage. Their craft enriches the community, providing sustenance, livelihood, and a taste of tradition during one of the most meaningful observances in Filipino life.
